Bourbon and Brotherhood…
or the Longest Two Ounces of My Life
Douglas Trattner | May 21, 2014
“We drink bourbon and rye for the same reason we listen to jazz — because we’re American, goddammit!” says founding member David Brown.
The genesis of the club can be traced back to the bottom of a cocktail glass. A shared love of fine cocktails, specifically Manhattans at the Velvet Tango Room, led to an obsessive quest to find the best bourbon for the task. Before long, the founding members were beating a path to a spirits retailer across state lines to load up on hard-to-find hootch.
Like beer, the ingredients that make up bourbon are few. But many are the differences when it comes to matters of appearance, aroma and taste. It is precisely those distinctions that are the raison d’être of the Cleveland Bourbon Club.
“You can have two barrels of the same bourbon right fucking next to each other in the rick house and they’ll taste completely different,” explains Mathew T., the club’s information officer.
With hundreds of bourbons on the market, the early years of the club were all about building a knowledge base, says founding member Edwin Vargas. “For the first two years we were all about tasting everything — the wider variety the better,” he says. “You taste, you come to your own evaluations and then you compare those observations against reviewers you trust.”
Members have been added slowly and cautiously since the start. Potential candidates must be nominated by an existing member and then voted in by the entire club. Only recently did the club welcome its first — and only — female member.
“We’re seeking people who will be fun to drink with, but also will take things seriously at the tastings,” notes founding member Nicholas Panagopoulos. Adds Mathew T., “The important thing is that you care about drinking American spirits, you want to see your palate develop and you want to contribute to and learn from the group.”
Membership dues “are less than $500 per year,” which includes the right to taste two bourbons at each meeting. That might sound steep, but when you consider the cost-prohibitive nature of some of the bourbons in the line-up, you quickly see the rationale behind the club. In three years of tastings, no bourbon has been repeated. The 25-member cap is in place so that each member will receive a one-ounce pour from each 750 ml (approximately 25 ounces) bottle. Members with more than two or three unexcused absences in a year are kindly shown the door.
At 7 p.m., the members gather around one long table in a private space. In accordance with the rules and recommendations of the club, nobody is wearing strong aftershave or cologne. One-ounce samples of two different bourbons are placed in front of each member, along with an official score sheet and a pen. There are jugs of water and water glasses, but no ice and zero food.
The noses go first, plunged deep into the glass to receive the aromas. Next come the sips — chews, really — to distribute the booze all over the mouth to better experience it. There’s a lot of note taking, some pleasant chatter. Everybody manages to make their pours last much (much) longer than mine. When everybody finishes evaluating both samples, the presentations begin.
One by one, members offer up their personal assessment of both bourbons, using descriptors like tobacco, black pepper, clove, cooked sugar, butterscotch, cedar and circus peanuts for aroma and maple syrup, cinnamon, clove, oak, orange peel and leather for flavor. Finishes are debated and scores are given. Members are quiet and respectful throughout, and a round of applause follows each and every presentation.
As one of the newest members — and the club’s only female member — Rockefeller’s chef Jill Vedaa admitted that she was a tad nervous before her first meeting. “When you think of bourbon, you think it’s a man’s drink,” she says. “But I’ve always loved bourbon and cigars.” Vedaa found that not only was she welcome, but that she brought value to the proceedings. “As a chef, I might be able to recognize certain flavors and tastes that others might not be able to pinpoint.”
In the coming year, the club hopes to raise its visibility and utility through a public website. “We want to be taken seriously,” says Vargas. “We want a level of responsibility so that we can help others make the right decisions with regards to bourbon.”
No foolin’: Cleveland micro-distillery Tom’s Foolery to host a bourbon release bash at Market Garden Brewery in Ohio City
The Plain Dealer
Not many kids, you see, romanticized Johnny Appleseed, the pioneer who introduced apples to Ohio in the 1800s.
Li’l Tom didn’t just like to read children books about him; he wanted to be like Johnny.
“I was interested in apples and apple farming, making cider and distillation,” says Herbruck. “I never saw it as a business opportunity – just a lifelong dream.”
Well, he’s living the dream: Herbruck is the owner of Tom’s Foolery, a micro-distillery that has made a name of itself by making, yup, you guessed it, applejack.
Herbruck makes the stuff in a barn in Bainbridge Township most nights and weekends. He keeps a day job as an employee benefits consultant specializing in 401(k) plans.
It might get a little harder starting Wednesday.
At 5 p.m. Wednesday, Herbruck will debut Tom Foolery’s Ohio Straight Bourbon Whiskey. The public party will take place at Market Garden Brewery, 1947 West 25thSt., Cleveland.
“We’ll be providing a limited number of free samples and talking about the process,” says Herbruck. “It’s hosted by the Cleveland Bourbon Club.”
You know, the CBC, that shadowy band of connoisseurs that gets together and, well, yeah, drinks bourbon.
“Our club represents a weird cross-section of society, with different political and religious views,” says Matthew T, a Cleveland filmmaker and club member who handles the Ministry of Propaganda for the group. “We’re all unified on one thing, however: bourbon. We like to drink it, but also look at the history of it and the way it’s made – and I must add that Tom is a big nerd when it comes to this.”
An enthusiastic nerd — go ahead and ask him how he got those bourbon stills from the Jim Beam family. Or how bourbon is a proud American tradition.
As Herbruck says, “Just like you can only make cognac in France or scotch in Scotland, you can only make bourbon in America.”
The evening includes prominent whiskey writer Charles K. Cowdery, author of “Bourbon, Strange.”
Herbruck officially released his first batch of bourbon on Oct. 1, but it can take weeks for it to work its way through the Ohio Liquor Control distribution channels.
Herbruck is patient. After all, a few weeks is nothing compared to three years.
“That’s when I started making the bourbon,” he says. “It needs to mature a minimum of two years to be considered a straight bourbon.”
It is possible to sell bourbon that has aged for less than two years, but it would not qualify as “straight” and would be an inferior product.
“There’s no legal requirement, but I don’t this as some money-making venture – because I have a day job,” says Herbruck. “So I can afford to be patient in order to create a higher-quality product.”
Tom’s Foolery is one of five distilleries in Northeast Ohio. There are 39 total in Ohio – a number that continues to grow amid the micro-distillery movement.
Herbruck has also added rye to his stable of brands, with a release date targeted for spring 2015.
He estimates a total of 150 barrels produced of all three products combined – which, despite the growth in business, still puts him at the micro end of the spectrum.
He has no plans to cash in a Tom’s Foolery 401(k) plan, however.
“Why do you think I called it Tom’s Foolery?” says Herbruck. “There’s not a lot of money in it, but there’s a whole lot of fun getting to do what you dreamed about doing since you was a kid.”